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M.H. Mix Tape Vol. 3

So first of all, Daniel Woods is a machine! He climbs 2 V13’s first try, 2 V13’s second try, and 2 V11’s first try. In six hours! As you may have read in my previous blogs, I’m a Hueco-afficienado, and have tried parts of four of these problems. They are HARD. Those are real V13s.

In order of appearance:

Li, V13… I’ve done the stand start to this (V7) and climbed on the sit start with Ethan Pringle. The feet are horrible and the giant move to the pinch just doesn’t make sense. Neither of us were able to do that move.

Liane, V11…Six minutes later (!!!), Daniel fires off this problem. I watched Ethan flash it on one of my rest days in Hueco, and I’m excited to get on it next time.

The Evangelion, V13…A hard, scary Dave Graham first ascent. Tall and crimpy, climbing over another boulder, AND it’s really hard. Obviously.

Slashface, hard V13…Same start as Evangelion, horrendous feet and sharp holds make this full value. Good friend and BKB regular Mike Feinberg (3rd place at UBC Central Park comp!) took this down this past winter. Watch Daniel’s feet just stick to the wall! Nutz!

Mo Mojo, V11…Daniel styles this problem and tops it out through the scary death choss. Originally graded V12, it’s no gimmie.

Finally, Crown Royal, V13…Daniel gets the second of this Sam Davis problem, traversing below the mega classic, Better Eat Your Wheaties, V8/9. A little contrived, but another hard addition. It’s awesome to watch him try hard at the end of this day.

Needless to say, Daniel won the Hueco Rock Rodeo, the outdoor comp in Hueco Tanks. I don’t need to say much about this video. It pretty much speaks for itself; holy cow!

 

 

UBC in NYC!! OMG!!!

In case you’ve been living under a rock and hadn’t heard, the second stop on the Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour took place in our lovely metropolis a few weeks ago.  This marked the first professional climbing comp in NYC, with finals happening in Central Park.  Vasya Vorotnikov and Angie Payne came out on top winning a bunch o’ cash and the chance to flex their muscles in front of thousands of screaming people, many of whom were probably climbing virgins.  Great job Angie and Vasya!

 

For me, this was the biggest event I’ve been able to set at, and it was  a ton of fun working with the setting team.  The crew consisted of myself, Max Zolotukhin, Dave Wetmore, Jeremy Hardin, and Chief Setter Chris Danielson.  Chris and Jeremy have been setting events like this for a while now, and both amazed me with their abilities.  Chris has some ninja-like skills with a wrench and blew me away with his knowledge of the field of competitors, and basically all things setting related.  He and Jeremy have even mastered the one-leg ladder climb.  Yep, Chris managed to match the ninth rung…kinda blew my mind.


Photo Credit: Dave Wetmore (davewetmore.lt11.com)

 

Our job for the week was to set the qualifiers and semifinals climbs at the Cliffs at Valhalla.  With the help of gym locals Paul Jung and Kary Williams we busted out all the climbs in two days, leaving the third day to set up, forerun, and do some final tweaks.

 


Photo Credit: Dave Wetmore (davewetmore.lt11.com)

 


Photo Credit: Dave Wetmore (davewetmore.lt11.com)

 

After semifinals on Friday we shuffled on down to Central Park to tweak the finals climbs.  Due to the limited time to actually work in the park, the finals climbs were set a few months prior in a warehouse in Colorado.  They were then taken down, the wall was dismantled, everything was shipped to NYC, and finally the walls were put back up and the problems reset (by Mr. Kyle McCabe, bamf and workhorse extraordinaire).  We spent Friday night tweaking the climbs to account for the field of competitors and, more importantly, the hot weather.  We finished up by 3 a.m. and got ready for the big show the next day.

 

 

 

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All in all the finals went pretty damn well.  Comp climbing finally got a bigger venue, a bunch of people who knew nothing about climbing got super-psyched watching some mutants pull down, and Vasya got to do a one-arm in front of thousands of people.  My favorite moment of the day was the crowd’s collective gasp when Mauricio Huerta first did the 360 campus move on Men’s #3; it was great to hear all the non-climbers having their minds blown!

 

For further recap, check out these sick videos put together from our friends over at Louder Than 11

 

 

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-Jeremy “JB” Bini

M.H. Mix Tape vol.2

Vimeo and YouTube are filled with thousands of videos of people climbing in rock gyms, but that doesn’t mean they’re all worth watching. Online videos are a big part of climbing: they help you climb vicariously all over the world. But gym videos lack the appeal of beta knowledge and the beauty of the great outdoors. It’s no fun to see footage of a shaky, chalky problem in some dark gym.

That being said, The Insiders is awesome! Paul Robinson, Sasha DiGiulian, Vasya Vorotnikov, Dave Wetmore, Francesca Metcalf and Ashima Shiraishi are featured in this great Big Up production. It’s cool to see a bunch of pro climbers sending in Central Rock, Massachusetts. This short film also profiles the climbers well and you can get a good sense of what they’re about, as well as how they train in a gym setting and how they can apply that to climbing outside. Obviously, these athletes are some of the strongest in the world, and they are dominating both the outdoor climbing industry as well as the national competition circuit. Recently, Sasaha DiGiulian got 2nd and Vasya Vorotnikov raged (getting 1st for men) at the UBC Pro Tour comp in Central Park, yanking a one-arm pull up at the top of the final problem.

This was composed by Big Up to show gym climbing and promote the sport. They did a fantastic job with all the filming and editing and it make it really easy and exciting to watch. I particularly like the lighting in the gym, which is something most climbing gyms struggle with in videos.

It’s awesome to see Ashima climbing in it. She’s going to be featured in this year’s Reel Rock film tour, so we’re going to get to see lots more footage of her. It’s apparent to me that she doesn’t even come close to trying hard in this video. I don’t think they even realized her full strength. I routinely climb with her at BKB, and make up climbs for her that are practically V13. She is one to watch, and I feel psyched to watch her progress and become a national climbing sensation.

Headsetter for The Insiders is Chris Danielson, a representative for Teknik and E-Grips hand holds. He provides the holds for this event, using some of JB and my favs. Watch closely and see how many you recognize from BKB. He set some very unique movements, including the bat hang down swing dyno, done by Paul Robinson.

Da Trapps, Da Nears

We had nice day of shralping the gnar this past Thursday. The day kicked off in the Trapps, and ended down in the Near Trapps.   Although a bit tired, we all managed to climb some cool stuff, and check out problems that Jeremy, Ben and Mark hadn’t been on before. Overall it was a relaxed, mellow outing.  Here are a few pics, and short clip of Bini ticking Cream Cheese V6 in the Nears.

Ben cruising “The Million Dollar Problem” V5, in the Trapps.


Grateful Dead member Gerry Garcia out for a shralp.


Gerry pulls the crux of “Rock Star” V5

Crush the pinch! GK on “Karajo” V10/11


Out for a trip on Ken’s Crack 5.7


MH on the lovely “Suzie B” V0+

Boss Man Ben on “New Pair of Glasses” V7

 

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